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About Beach
and Coastal Erosion
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About Beach and Coastal Erosion
Beach erosion and coastal erosion are not
the same, but they are related. Beach erosion is a reduction in
the amount of sand a particular beach has. On a global level, sea
level rise causes beach erosion. But beaches also erode (and expand)
on a seasonal basis.
Beaches get sand from both the ocean and the land. Larger waves
move sand from the coastal sand dunes off into the ocean. This raises
the seafloor, flattens the overall profile of the beach, and, therefore,
causes waves to break further offshore. This, in turn, minimizes
the waves' impact on coastal lands. Beaches recover from these seasonal
shifts when the waves move the sand back onto the beach and the
winds blow the deposited sand into dunes. These dunes will store
the land-based sand until the next large wave event.
Coastal erosion occurs when the beach migrates
toward the land in order to compensate for beach erosion as it tries
to maintain a constant supply of sand (see the right side of the
photo). If sand is not available to a beach, such as when a wall
is built to protect the land, the land is stabilized, however beach
erosion will occur (see left side of photo).
Installing a seawall or revetment (i.e., hardening
a shoreline) interferes with the natural cycle of beach erosion.
Rather than pulling sand from a landward supply in order to promote
waves breaking further off-shore during the seasonal high wave period,
the seawall or revetment prevents this natural phenomena from occurring.
Thus, the land itself begins to erode.
Therefore, it is tragically ironic seawalls or revetments have
been installed to prevent coastal erosion, but their very presence
exacerbates the very problem they were supposed to resolve.
Source: Fletcher, Charles, Eric Grossman, Bruce Richmond. Atlas of
Natural Hazards in the Hawaiian Coastal Zone. 2000. |