About Beach and Coastal Erosion
Beach erosion and coastal
erosion are not the same, but they are related. Beach erosion
is a reduction in the amount of sand a particular beach has. On
a global level, sea level rise causes beach erosion. But beaches
also erode (and expand) on a seasonal basis.
Beaches get sand from both the ocean and the land.
Larger waves move sand from the coastal sand dunes off into the
ocean. This raises the seafloor, flattens the overall profile
of the beach, and, therefore, causes waves to break further offshore.
This, in turn, minimizes the waves' impact on coastal lands. Beaches
recover from these seasonal shifts when the waves move the sand
back onto the beach and the winds blow the deposited sand into
dunes. These dunes will store the land-based sand until the next
large wave event.
Coastal erosion occurs when
the beach migrates toward the land in order to compensate for
beach erosion as it tries to maintain a constant supply of sand
(see the right side of the photo). If sand is not available to
a beach, such as when a wall is built to protect the land, the
land is stabilized, however beach erosion will occur (see left
side of photo).
Installing a seawall or revetment (i.e., hardening
a shoreline) interferes with the natural cycle of beach erosion.
Rather than pulling sand from a landward supply in order to promote
waves breaking further off-shore during the seasonal high wave
period, the seawall or revetment prevents this natural phenomena
from occurring. Thus, the land itself begins to erode.
Therefore, it is tragically ironic seawalls or revetments
have been installed to prevent coastal erosion, but their very
presence exacerbates the very problem they were supposed to resolve.
Source: Fletcher, Charles, Eric Grossman, Bruce
Richmond. Atlas of Natural Hazards in the Hawaiian Coastal Zone.
2000.